Safaris in Pench

Tungabhadra Banerjee

As one of the lesser-known national parks of Madhya Pradesh, Pench has contrived to retain much of its unblemished charm. On a visit to Pench, your primary activity will revolve around wildlife safaris that entail riding into the deep, dark and lovely woods in the hopes of spotting a striped hide or perhaps a spotted tail! The abundance of royal Bengal tigers, gorgeous leopards, exuberant spotted deer, packs of wild dogs and a near inexhaustible count of birds ensure that your hours whiled away along yellow grass roads in open air jeeps culminate in sights that leave you breathless. You may choose to enter the Core Zone of the National Park through two gates- Turia and Karmajhiri or through the more limited area accessed by a third Jamtara gate. Most accommodations lie adjacent to either of the former two gates. Forest lodges, tree house resots or jungle camps with tents for guestrooms make for rustic stays. The sibilant noises of the forest at night will have you shivering in thrill or itching to don your safari hats and respond to the call of the wild. Safaris set out in the wee hours of the morning or in the early hours of the evening though the timings are judiciously varied between long summer days and shorter winter ones.

Turia Gate Entry

Usually the more populous gate, this pathway is lined by white garbed acacias with the occasional adornment of bright green scrublands and shrubs. In the morning safaris, the temperatures tend to soar as you travel while the undulating plains awash in golden sunlight are a sight for sore eyes. You will be accompanied by the murmurous haunt of bird calls carring in the fragrant morning air; conversely, in the evenings you are likely to be mesmerised by the encroaching shades of silver in the dewy moonlight. The seemingly ungodly hours of waiting will be amply compensated by the vision of a single leopard resting on some wayward tree limb, or an amicable tiger that comes almost scarily close to your jeep. This route also parts towards the Junanwani waterhole which is a very popular viewing spot and then heads towards the higher terrain of Pyorthadi. From the latter you can get unobstructed views of the rocky forest lands frequented by fauna of all kinds.


Karmajheri Gate Entry

This is for the ones looking for a quieter stay and a less crowded safari. The aroma wafting off of mossy grounds and leafy bamboos will accompany your ride in this zone that is known for spotted deer, wild dogs, jackals and a few tigers or leopards. You would be quite lucky to be on a safari shared with wildlife photographers whose keen eye and even faster cameras are sure to uncover unepected delights amidst the trees. Your safari guide will offer fun trivia and enjoyable anecdotes while you keep your eyes peeled for a visit from the wildlife. If you are keen on bird watching, take the path towards Sitaghat, running adjacent to the Pench river which is essentially the best gathering spot for migratory birds. Patience is of course the key virtue, so be prepared to pause at junctions like Bodhnalla or watering holes like Bijamatta. It is an amazing reward that awaits your patience – be it the stunning fan of a dancing peacock’s feathers, the pretty white spots of playful deer, or the rumbling growl of a royal Bengal tiger resting by the side of the Pench river. You can even take a nature hike along the Runi-Jhooni trail lining the core zone of the park, to see the tracks left behind by wild animals and thereby experience the forest at more close quarters.


Jamtara Gate Entry

The last gate of the Park is for those who wish to have a really complete experience of all that Pench has to offer. In spite of the limited locale, you will find grand trunks of ancient banyans, willowy Shindooris and delicate climbers fit for any nature enthusiast’s camera roll. Away from the great heartlands, you may chance upon sloth bears lounging in their comfortable arborial habitats. This path moreover serves as a connection to the other zones of the forest from the junction at Chedia ghaat. It will be a pleasurable and less hectic safari ride that beautifully rounds off your time with nature in Pench.


Buffer Zones

Both the Turiya and Karmajheri gates can be used to explore the three different buffer zones within Pench- namely, Rukhad, Khawasa and Telia. In Rukhad buffer zone you will encounter dense vegetation and flora as it is on the hilly side with numerous babbling brooks and rivulets, while also being a pretty important tiger corridor between Pench and the famous Kanha national Park. With the second Khawasa buffer, you should opt for a night safari as this zone is mainly a wolf sanctuary. The lightly wooded forest is a lovely contrast to the otherwise thick woods and at night you have the perfect opportunity to spot the luminescent eyes of wolves, porcupines or foxes. Finally, the Teliya buffer is especially replete with fauna. How would you feel seeing Bagheera from the Jungle Book in the tantalising flesh? It is entirely possible in the Teliya buffer where black panthers and melanistic leopards abound, along with wolves, barking deer, chowsingha and blue-bull antelopes for hearty company.